Medium purple color; strawberry, plum, blackberry on the nose; red plum, blackberry, blueberry, cherry, smoked bacon, vanilla, oak on the palate.
Dry; dense on the palate with surprising savory, bacon hint in the mid-palate. Teeny bit more tannic bite and acidic counterpoint than most malbecs, but nothing obnoxious—actually ads to the depth. Medium body. Deep, rich dark, concentrated fruits—many of the vines for this effort are a century old. Oak comes from a year in French wood, which earns it the “golden reserve” designation. 14% ABV
Established in the mid-1990s by the Chilean wine giant Concha y Toro, Trivento is one of Argentina’s larger and most-respected estates. Mendoza is the country’s premier wine regions. Luján de Cuyo is a premier region for malbec, so this has all the pedigree for a premium pour. And it delivers. I advised decanting in my review of the 2015 vintage of this effort. Still applies, but not as compelling a case with this year, so I did not. The wine evolves well in glass. Decant is an option, not a strong recommendation this time around.
Trivento’s name means “Three Winds”—a reference to the three winds (Polar, Zonda, Sudestada) that sweep through Mendoza and are a distinguishing feature of the region’s climate and environment. Trivento is part of Excelsior Wine Estates, a sales and marketing partnership of Banfi Vintners and Concha y Toro to sell in the U.S. market. Excelsior is the exclusive distributor of the Chilean wines of Concha y Toro, Trivento, and the California wines Little Black Dress and Five Rivers. So, this is a premium effort from a very major player in the wine world, and—as Argentine malbecs are wont to be—an outstanding bargain.
Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2019 has a more assertive, brawny element than you first expect from an Argentine malbec. Dense, almost jammy in the mouth with rich dark fruits. Pair with lamb; beef—rich steaks; barbecued lamb, beef, or pork—particularly with smokey, chili-based rubs; hot game pies; eggplant (aubergine) bakes; poultry. Cheese—asiago, cheddar, colby, gouda. $20-23
