Pale amber color; orange, apricot, apple, honey, sweet spices, flowers, smoke on the nose and palate.
Dry; reserved tannins, good acidity. Full, rich body. This is part of the “orange wine” movement where white grapes are vinified on the skins. Many orange wines are made in qvevri: egg-shaped clay vessels typically buried in the ground. The “qvi” (or “kve” in the alternate spelling means “beneath” or “under” in the Georgian language). Kisi is an ancient white grape enjoying a revival in Georgia (the country between Russia and Turkey. Kisi wine is made in two style. In qvevri—this wine—and traditional European methods. 13% ABV
Although there is some excitement about orange wine, qvevri, and kisi grapes being a new big thing, the grapes, vessels, and fermentation method are ancient, well pre-dating modern wines and wine making. Knowledge and experience of qvevri wine-making traditionally is passed down by relatives, neighbors, and friends., usually in communal harvesting and wine-making. Children learn how to tend vines, press grapes, ferment wine, collect clay and make and fire qvevris through observing their elders. The wine-making process involves pressing the grapes and then pouring the juice, grape skins, stalks and pips into the qvevri, which is sealed and buried in the ground so that the wine can ferment for five to six months before being drunk.
The Teliani Valley winery was hand-built by winemakers starting in 1997 on the site of a 19th century winery. The Teliani Valley cellar is located in Telavi, Kakheti Region, the heart of Georgian winemaking. Grapes come from the 1,730-acre estate vineyard. Temuri Dakishvili is the winemaker.
The winery notes: “Combining state of the art wine craft—the science of how to coax the best from nature—with wisdom and inherited know-how that comes from a line of winemakers stretching back 8000 years. This is the wine of Georgia—a land blessed with more than 500 grape varieties, geography, a climate, and an approach to winemaking that is at the core of who we are.”
Teliani Valley Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri 2020 is part of the Georgian amber or orange wine movement. Taliani Valley likely is the largest producer with the greatest distribution in the US, although you will not find this your average grocery store wine market. Amber/orange wine is distinctive. This is richer, earthier, fuller than you are used to in white wine. It is serious wine, superb with food, and worth sipping—if for no other reason than adding to your wine bucket list. Can work as an aperitif or sipped solo to generate discussion. Pair with vegetarian fare; mushrooms; lean fish; poultry, including fried chicken. Cheese—mild, soft cheese. $22-24
Georgian Wine House, US importer of Teliani Valley wine
