Medium gold color; yellow apple, brioche, pear, peach, Meyer lemon, vanilla, minerality, toasted oak on the nose and palate.
Dry; rich and creamy in the mouth, medium-plus body. No tannins; good acidity (3.58 pH). Significant and delicious oak. Pure chardonnay play. Fermented in barrel with native yeasts, followed by 100% malolactic fermentation with bi-weekly bâtonnage. Aged 15 months in French oak, 73% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 15.1% ABV
Old style California chardonnay with plenty of oak and alcohol, but this is extremely well done by a first-tier chardonnay maker. Vividly not the tarted-up plonk that is a caricature of this style. The Meyer lemon in the mid-palate and extended finish and beam of minerality through the entire, engaging, delicious adventure are really nice touches, complementing the lusty yellow apple initial attack. There also is a creme brûlée element for added pleasure.
Chalk Hill began in 1972 when Fred Furth flew his plane over the Russian River Valley and viewed a natural amphitheater carved in the hills of eastern Sonoma. He recognized it as an ideal site for a world-class vineyard and created an iconic Sonoma vineyard and winery. The property is more than 1,300 acres with 300 acres in vineyards; the remainder is wilderness areas, the winery, a hospitality center, and a culinary garden. Although the soil is chalky-white, it is not chalk. The white soil is of volcanic origin. The vineyards have distinctive and varied terroir.
Bill Foley is the vintner today, purchasing the property in 2010. He is the owner of the National Hockey League Vegas Golden Knights, an attorney, a graduate of West Point, a former captain in the U.S. Air Force, and chairman or board member of major financial and insurance companies. Today, Foley and his wife Carol live in Northern California part-time and are active philanthropists for many causes, especially those in support of veterans and children’s education.
Courtney Foley, Bill and Carol’s youngest daughter, is the head of winemaking. Like her father, she is an attorney, but she also studied enology and viticulture at both Napa Valley College and Fresno State University. Choosing vineyards over courtrooms, Courtney worked under winemaker Leslie Renaud at Lincourt and Foley Estates in Santa Barbara County and Roth Estate in Healdsburg before taking her position with Chalk Hill. She was the winemaker for this vintage, but in 2022 she moved into the supervisory position—executive vice president—over sales, production, winemaking, and distribution.
Chalk Hill Estate also is a destination. Website: “Perhaps no other winery captures the casual luxury of Sonoma County better than Chalk Hill Estate. Founded nearly four decades ago, this spectacular 1300-acre property features 300 acres of vineyards, wilderness areas, winery, hospitality center, culinary garden, residence, stables, equestrian pavilion, sports fields, fishing and swimming ponds, and guest houses. The winery’s vineyards are thoughtfully woven through the native foliage and contoured to fit the intricate terrain. More than two-thirds of the Chalk Hill Estate remains uncultivated. The higher elevations offer stunning views of the Russian River Valley to the west and the Mayacamas Mountains to the east.”
Chalk Hill Felta Chardonnay 2020 is a gloriously successful take on classic high quality fruit, oak, and alcohol California chardonnay. Rich, sensual, sybaritic experience. The “felta” name comes from the name of an alluvial spill on the estate with a gravely texture that Chalk Hill believes is particularly well-suited for chardonnay. This effort from that site seems definite proof of their contention. Pair with rich fish—salmon, light tuna, mackerel, trout, cod; shellfish—oysters; lobster roll; pork; chicken; vegetarian fare; grilled peaches with burrata and prosciutto. $90
