Deep ruby color; blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, redcurrant, raspberry, plum, cocoa, chocolate, licorice, earth, oak on the nose and palate.
Dry; soft tannins and mild acidity. Plump, round, silky. Medium-plus body. Primitivo grape is essentially the same grape called zinfandel in the U.S., and although there are subtle differences because of terroir, techniques, and clonal selections. This drinks like a California zin with its softness paired with dark fruit power. Grapes come from old vines. Maceration in controlled temperature stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation/conversion, spent eight months in French tonneua (large capacity barrels that limit the oak influence). 14.5% ABV
Located in Leporano, Puglia, in the boot of Italy, the winery was established in 1921 by the grandfather of the current owner, Cosimo Varvaglione. Today, Cosimo guides the operation with his children—Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca. Their operation includes some 370 acres. It is one of the oldest and largest family-owned wineries in Southern Italy. Wines are distributed in more than 60 countries.
The website presents its philosophy: “Varvaglione 1921 aims for excellence, taking the best of the land and transforming it into quality wines. The diversity of native grape varieties is the starting point; knowing how to make the right choice at the right moment is the merit of the experienced winemaker. Varvaglione 1921’s philosophy pivots on the combination of tradition and technology. In the Salento region of Puglia, Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione along with their three children have given new life to a winery with four generations of experience and tradition, and the support of dynamic, motivated collaborators.”
Varvaglione Papale Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy DOC 2020 is rich, smooth, very dark wine made with grape called zinfandel in the U.S. Silky mouthfeel with genteel, polished tannins, round, fruit-forward with light oak influence. Pair with rich meat dishes, slow-cooked beef or lamb stew, braised lamb shanks. Italian dishes–pasta with meat and tomato sauce; orecchiette pasta with spicy sausage and broccoli rabe, pasta alla Norma, porchetta, primitivo risotto, other Southern Italy fare. Spicy foods in general. Wild game—venison, wild turkey, duck, quail. Cheese—aged pecorino, parmigiano-reggiano, gorgonzola, manchego, gruyère. $23-30
