Deep ruby-garnet color; black cherry, raspberry, plum, fig, blackcurrant, black olive, butterscotch, balsamic, coffee, leather, subtle oak, vanilla, dark chocolate, clove on the nose and palate.
Dry; firm, refined tannins and acidity. Medium body. Rioja reserve regulations require at least three years of age, at least one in oak barrel; this spent 19 months in 65% American and 35% French oak. Blend of 85% tempranillo, 7% garnacha, 5% graciano, 3% maturana. The 2015 vintage in Rioja was rated “excellent” by the Consejo Regulador. The wine is a wee bit tight on pop-and-pour; decanting suggested. With nine years under its belt, the wine is more savory than fruity and just moving into its best drinking horizon. Long finish. 14% ABV
The bodegas (winery) history dates back 130 years. Jesús Martinéz Bujanda, father of the next generation of owners—Ana and Jesús Martínez Bujanda—passed his knowledge to the current generation. Long-time pioneers, the website notes about the father: “He has instilled in us his love for the land, his passion for great wines, but above all his pioneering and maverick character. This lifestyle has shown us not to take anything for granted and to always keep searching for the best method to produce better wines each day.”
The operation emphasizes turning vineyards into sustainable wine agroecosystems through biodiversity-based viticulture. That includes using pheromones to control pests, protective floriculture as crop covers, diversity of grape varieties, use of organic material to improve the soil, creation of native forests—foster bird nesting boxes, reptile shelters, animal drinking troughs, beehives, and insect hotels, biological corridors.
In 2018, the Valdemar Family became the only winery in the world to offer a fully accessible and inclusive winery tourism experience, meaning all part of the winery offer handicap access. Wheelchair-bound, deaf, blind are accommodated. There is good video on the website showing and explaining the effort; it is in Spanish but self explanatory if you do not speak the language.
Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Rioja Reserva 2015 delivers balance and rounded flavors; savory rather than fruit-forward, especially after nine years. Earthy, dark fruit, balanced, long finish. The winery practices sustainable farming and biodiversity. Winery offers complete access to all; all public spaces handicap accessible. Pair with hearty stews, grilled meats. Roast lamb, grilled lamb steaks, slow-braised lamb shanks, tender lamb cutlets. Grilled or roasted beef. Veal. Pan-seared venison. Chili dishes. Shepherds pie. Roasted portobello mushrooms. Indian fare with moderate spice levels. Cheese—manchego, diazabal (smoky sheep’s milk cheese from Basque region of Rioja), aged cheddar, mahon, blue cheese. $29
