Deep ruby color; blackberry, plum, cherry, fig, dark chocolate, leather, earth, oak spice on the nose and palate.
Dry; amiable, somewhat drying tannins; subdued acidity. Medium-plus to full body. Bordeaux blend strongly led by cabernet sauvignon, modestly abetted by merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot (winery does not specify the percentages). The 2022 growing season was warm and dry, resulting in higher sugar levels and lower acidity than in previous vintages of Portrait. Immediate result is smooth, silky mouthfeel, earlier drinkability, and slightly elevated alcohol. 14.9% ABV
There are no notes on winery practices, but likely there was decreased use of punch-downs and greater use of pump overs to reduce extraction of tannins. These tannins are nicely mellow, if surprisingly drying as the wine evolves in glass. Ripe fruit flavors. The restrained tannins and acidity make this less bombastic than many higher-end Napa cabs, which will be a welcomed feature by many wine drinkers. Meticulously made given the challenges, as expected from Ehlers.
Lured by the allure of wine and motivated to embrace of new challenges, French entrepreneurs and philanthropists Jean and Sylviane Leducq purchased land in the St. Helena area of Napa in the mid-1980s. In the manner of a French châteaux, they methodically acquired adjacent property to assemble today’s 42-acre, organically farmed estate. Bernard Ehlers, the original owner, built a stone barn in 1886 that is the heart of the operation today.
The Leducqs through The Leducq Charitable Trust passed on management of their operation to Laura Díaz Muñoz. Originally from Madrid, when she took the reins, Díaz committed to taking Ehlers into its next generation, including focused farming that includes some replanting. She also experimented with a variety of vessels for cellaring and aging. She was the winemaker for this effort, her last at Ehlers. Adam Castro is the head winemaker today, becoming head winemaker in 2023. Steven Folb is the general manager.
The Ehlers vineyards are located in an up-valley location in the St. Helena AVA. The location provides ideal ripening conditions with the narrowing channel of the Vaca and Mayacamas mountains delivering cooling winds to promote freshness, balance, and finesse.
Ehlers Estate Portrait Red Wine, Napa Valley 2022 somewhat toned down than other efforts, thanks to warm and dry weather in 2022. Delivers tradition tasting notes for a Bordeaux blend led by Napa cabernet sauvignon, but more approachable now, in its relative youth, than you would expect. Red and black fruits play well together while tannins and acidity yield center stage. There is still enough oomph here to complement rich meats and hearty dishes. Pair with quality cuts of beef—ribeye grilled skirt steak with avocado and tomato salsa, sirloin, porterhouse, slow-cooked brisket, beef stew. Pasta dishes with rich sauces. The dialed-back tannins are still Napa tannins, but they open this up for other meats, especially with richer sauces and rubs. Cheese—aged cheddar, gruyère, brie, camembert, pecorino, Italian ubriaco. $75-80
