Varvaglione Cosimo Varaglione Collezione Privata Old Vines Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy DOC 2020: Deep ruby-black color; black cherry, blackberries, blackcurrant, prune, fig, oak, vanilla, leather on the nose and palate.
Off-dry; very ripe fruit sweetness; soft tannins; soft acidity. Full body. Round, juicy, velvety. The primitivo grape is essentially the same grape called zinfandel in the U.S., and although there are subtle differences because of terroir, techniques, and clonal selections. Delivers softness and easy drinking paired with dark fruit power. Grapes come from old vines. Maceration in controlled temperature stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation/conversion, spent 14 months in French tonneua (large capacity barrels that limit the oak influence). 15% ABV
Puglia, located in the “heel” of Italy’s boot, grows all the primitivo grapes in Italy. Created in 1974, Primitivo di Manduria DOC is the most important appellation for primitivo. Primitivo di Manduria is noted for full-bodied wines with intense flavors and, typically high alcohol. Gioia del Colle DOC and Saltento IGT are the other regions in Puglia that grow primitivo.
Located in Leporano, Puglia, Varvaglione winery was established in 1921 by the grandfather of the current owner, Cosimo Varvaglione. Today, Cosimo guides the operation with his children—Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca. Their operation includes some 370 acres. It is one of the oldest and largest family-owned wineries in Southern Italy. Wines are distributed in more than 60 countries.
The website presents its philosophy: “Varvaglione 1921 aims for excellence, taking the best of the land and transforming it into quality wines. The diversity of native grape varieties is the starting point; knowing how to make the right choice at the right moment is the merit of the experienced winemaker. Varvaglione 1921’s philosophy pivots on the combination of tradition and technology. In the Salento region of Puglia, Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione along with their three children have given new life to a winery with four generations of experience and tradition, and the support of dynamic, motivated collaborators.”
Varvaglione Cosimo Varaglione Collezione Privata Old Vines Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy DOC 2020 is smooth with soft tannins and acidity but powerful with vivid dark fruits, body, and alcohol. Made with, essentially, the grape known as zinfandel in the U.S.—there are slight clonal and stylistic differences—Varaglione goes for the fruit-forward, easy drinking style that will be familiar to American palates. Puglia also produces primitivo that is more structured, age-worthy. The criticism of this effort is that it comes in a ridiculously thick, heavy, environmentally hostile bottle. The wine is good, the bottle is not.
Pair with lamb, grilled or roasted. Wild boar stew; wild game in general—venison, wild turkey, quail. Veal stew with potatoes and peas. Slow-cooked, braised, barbecued beef dishes. Pork—sausage, shredded. Lasagna alla bolognese; eggplant parmesan, pizza, pasta dishes with tomato-based sauces. Southern Italian fare in general. Cheese—parmigiano reggiano, aged pecorino, caciocavallo, canestrato pugliese, mature cheddar, blue cheeses. $25-28
