Château Lilian Ladouys Saint-Estèphe 2010: Inky ruby-black; red fruits take time to open for the nose, then reward; muscularly flaunts power of cab-driven Saint-Estèphe with full, puckery tannin, rich blackberry, black currant, oak, smoky toast, earth on the palate. Some Saint-Estèphe are suave and reserved (usually merlot-driven), this immediately lets you know you have a robustly serious Bordeaux in your mouth—60% cab, 40% merlot. Full body; swirl-a-lot or decant-an-hour-plus to bring out its best. Saint-Estèphe is the northmost of the six communal appellations of Médoc. Serious, impressive, big-boy pour; not made for faint-of-palate newbies, but seasoned sippers will enjoy a fling with Lilian Ladouys. $35
