Petroni Vineyards Chardonnay Estate Grown 2013: Light pale straw color; green apple, whiff of flowers on the nose; lemon, apple (green and golden), melon, pinch of pear on the palate. Medium body, wonderfully crisp and clean, cutting acidity (no malolactic fermentation) makes this palate-cleansing, food friendly; dry, tart, nutty, citrus on the finish, oak thankfully restrained (only 30% new French), well balanced. Interesting backstory: winery started by Lorenzo Petroni, who in 1970 opened the North Beach Restaurant, perhaps San Francisco’s leading Italian eatery featuring authentic Tuscan cuisine; in 1992 he purchased the hillside vineyard in Sonoma’s Moon Mountain district (Sonoma’s newest and highest district on the western slope of the Mayacamas Mountains); eschewing Tuscan roots, this effort is distinctly Burgundian with whole bunch pressing, full-barrel fermentation, restrained use of oak, no malo. Nice, understated effort vinted to pair with fare as befits a restauranteur/wine maker. $30
