Cline Family Cellars Hat Strap Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Sonoma County 2021

Medium gold color; color; baked apple, lemon, peach, pear, pineapple, baked bread, butter on the nose and palate.

Cline Family Cellars Hat Strap Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Sonoma County 2021

Dry; no tannins, full body but not heavy. Subdued acidity. Rich, full, generous with ripe fruit flavors and intriguing appearance of some lemon bite on the extended finish. Grapes sourced from Cline family’s J. Poppe vineyard, the oldest vineyard on the estate. Afternoon winds are common in Carneros and especially strong on Wildcat Mountain, where the Poppe vineyard is located. As a result, Fred Cline notes he has to hang on to his hit and cinch up the strap when inspecting the site. Thus the “Hat Strap” name.

The 100% chardonnay grapes are hand-harvested and immediately pressed. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless steel and French oak barrels. Full malolactic fermentation/conversion, then extended time on the lees for depth. Wine ages for 10 months, 35% in new French oak, 35% in neutral oak, and 30% in stainless steel. 14.5% ABV

Cline Cellars founders Fred & Nancy ClineFred Cline marches to different drummer. While some of his generation frolicked in the 1960s, Fred learned the ways of soil and farming from Valeriano Jacuzzi—Fred Cline’s maternal grandfather and one of seven Jacuzzi brothers who pioneered in American aviation and water pumps. When you turn on the Jacuzzi in your hot tub you are enjoying his family’s work. Eschewing aircraft and whirlpool devices, Fred and his wife, Nancy, decided to go into the wine business in the 1980s. Today, two of their children, Hilary and Henry Cline are active in the business.

Cline Cellars founders Fred & Nancy Cline
Cline Cellars second generation Hilary and Henry Cline

Cline’s first mission was restoring old vines and vineyards growing Rhone-style wine vines, such as syrah and mourvèvdre. Later came attention to ancient—some more than a century old—zinfandel, and Cline became famous for its zins. This chardonnay is in classic Carneros style, you get rich fruits, some oak, some malo butteriness, somewhat heavy body for a chard—it could use more acidity, you can’t have everything—but all those qualities are in proportion so this is not some dolled up, painted lady of a chard. It probably works better sipped by itself than paired with specific food.

Cline Cellars director of winemaking and viticulture Tom Gendall

In cooperation with legendary farmer Bob Cannard, the Clines founded Green String Farm, a 150-acre working farm that produces a variety of fruits and vegetables grown on soil that is tended and nurtured without toxic chemicals. Green String and Cline’s vineyards go “beyond organic.” They use no pesticides and herbicides. They incorporate sheep and goats for weed control (see link to video below), apply compost teas, encourage beneficial insects, apply ground volcanic cinders to replenish soils, and use whey to feed the microbiome. Cline wines are vegan, gluten free, and the vineyards are Certified California Sustainable.

Cline Cellars Vineyard

Cline Family Cellars Hat Strap Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Sonoma County 2021 is rich, full-bodied Carneros chard with admirable restraint on the oak and butter, while still deftly delivering some of that popular style. Could use more acidity, but you cannot have everything, and the rich an fulfilling chardonnay fruit should pleasure your palate. Likely works as a stand-alone aperitif or solo sipping wine with neutral crackers, charcuterie board. Pair with roast chicken, turkey with cream gravy. Grilled or roasted halibut, lobster with plenty of butter, seared scallops in butter, shrimp scampi. Pork tenderloin. Creamy mushroom risotto, roasted vegetable pasta with light cream sauce, butternut squash soup. Cheese—brie, camambert, aged cheddar, gruyère, goat cheeses, triple-cream cheeses. $25-30

Cline Cellars website

Organic farming–weed control at Cline Cellars
Cline Cellars winery, tasting area