Deep ruby color; red and black fruits, red cherry, blackberry, plum, black pepper, spice, vanilla, flowers on the nose and palate.
Dry; medium tannins; fresh acidity. Medium body. Vivid fruit ripe enough to give hints of sweetness (but not from residual sugar). Blend of 40% touriga nacional, 30% tinta roriz, 20% touriga franca, 10% tinta barroca, all from the Symington family’s Douro Valley vineyards in Northern Portugal, one of the world’s oldest demarcated wine regions. The same vineyards supply grapes for the House of Dow premier porto efforts.
Vintage 2020 was hot, dry, trying with production down as much as 40% in some properties. Careful management and some luck with rain allowed for overall good quality. Grapes were very carefully sorted given the 2020 challenges, then de-stemmed and gently crushed. Grapes fermented in individual, temperature-controlled stainless steel with pumpovers and rack-and-return procedures. Aged six months in French oak to complete élevage (the nurturing of wine after fermentation until it is bottled) and produce subtle oak notes and enhance smoothness. 14% ABV
I last reviewed this label’s 2016 vintage. That also was testy year, but it was marked by exceptional rain in spring. That resulted in a brambly, rustic effort that had distinctive charms but heavily depended upon decanting and some age to reach its potential. This vintage does not share those characteristics. Decanting not required for this 2020 effort.
Like many Portuguese wines, this is a lot of wine for the money and a flavor adventure that takes you out of your bland factory wine comfort zone. For years, the Symington’s—famous for their Dow port wines—made this as a house wine, but after entreaties they decided to produce some for export to the U.S., where it quickly received praise and now is a staple of QPR (quality-price ratio) plaudits from the wine pundits.
In addition to this wine, Symington Family Estates makes Porto and Madeira wines. Symington enjoys the largest vineyard ownership in the Douro. The company was founded by Andrew James Symington, who arrived in Oporto from Scotland in 1882. He initially joined Graham’s. In 1905 he was a partner in Warre & Co and in 1912 a partner in Dow’s Port. In 1970, the family bought both Graham’s and Smith Woodhouse. In 1989 the family became a partner in the Madeira Wine Company, at that time controlled by the Blandy family. They now control Cockburn’s, Graham’s, Warre’s, Dow’s, Smith Woodhouse, Gould Campbell, Quarles Harris, and Martinez—by far the strongest Porto portfolio in the world. Symington’s Madeira holdings include Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock’s, and Miles—making them the major player in Madeira wine.
Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro DOC Red Wine Blend 2020 is an attractive wine made from same vineyards and grape varieties Dow-Symington grows for its extensive porto catalog. Reserved tannins and balancing acidity make for a pleasant, easy drinker with red and black fruit charms. Pair with grilled rich, hearty meats—beef, venison, wild boar. Traditional Portuguese fare—cabrito assado (roasted kid goat), cabrito grelhado (grilled kid goat), cabrito estufado (stewed kid goat). Hearty fish—salt cod, bacalhau com natas (salt cod potato gratin). Bean stews. Cheese—queijo da serra da estrela, manchego, hard rind cheeses. $15
