Dow’s 20 Year Tawny Porto: Deep, polished mahogany, amber rim color; orange marmalade, citrus peel, dried apricot, cherry, blueberry, dark chocolate, burnt caramel, butterscotch, hazelnut, ginger, clove, violets, honeysuckle on the nose and palate.
Sweet (126 g/L residual sugar) balanced by tart acidity (3.68 pH, 4.5 g/L tartaric acid). The sugar-acid ratio is 28:1, right in the ideal range of 25-30:1 for tawny port. Rich, full body. Slight tannins. Generous, creamy, delicious in the mouth. The grapes are a field blend, principally touriga nacional, abetted by touriga franca, tinta roriz (tempranillo), and tinta barroca. These are the standard grapes in porto, but as a field blend there likely is a smattering of others. Portuguese regulations allow for more than 80 red grape varieties in porto. 20% ABV
Dow’s is a label of Symington Family Estates. Charles Symington is the master blender for this effort. For more than a century, their 20 Year Tawny consistently has been a masterful synthesis of tradition, craftsmanship, and terroir. Dow’s is the benchmark for 20 year tawny porto. There is expense involved. But note, a serving of this porto is only a few ounces and, when stored appropriately—away from light, around 55º F—this 750 ml bottle of wine can last for at least 4-6 months after opening and can even improve. Think about that—a wine that gets better long after you open it.
Further on the cost angle to this story—this is porto bargain. Premier tawny portos sell for $1,200-$7,000. For an added kicker, various sources estimate this bottle will improve past 2050. Welcome to porto’s long game. This is made in classic style from a premier maker. Wonderfully balanced. The Symington family dominates Porto and Madeira production in Portugal because they are so good at it.
Andrew James Symington became a partner in Dow’s in 1912, and Symington Family Estates gained full ownership in 1961, as well as Warre’s. In 1970, the family bought both major Porto makers Graham’s and Smith Woodhouse. In 1989 the family became a partner in the Madeira Wine Company, at that time controlled by the Blandy family. They now control Dow’s, Warre’s, Graham’s, Smith Woodhouse, Cockburn’s, Gould Campbell, Quarles Harris, and Martinez—by far the strongest Porto portfolio in the world. They have the largest vineyard ownership in the Douro.
Dow’s 20 Year Tawny Porto: Rich, complex, satisfying, balanced classic. Many consider 20 years the perfect age for tawny porto, although there are 30 and 40-year versions. Every wine lover should enjoy a pour of this delight. Liquid dessert with complexity and fruity sweetness. Impressive on several levels. Decadence at its best. Serve chilled around 55º F. Enjoy this all by itself; exquisite after-dinner sipper; pairs with vanilla ice cream, crème brûlée; nuts; dried fruits; fruitcake. Cheese—soft-ripened and creamy cheeses; mature gruyère. While blue cheeses like stilton are often paired with porto, Dow’s 20 Year Tawny will be more harmonious with less assertive cheeses that will not overpower Dow’s complexity. $78-85
Symington Family Estates website
