Franciscan Estate Equilibrium White Wine 2014: Very pale straw-gold with stars of tiny bubbles clinging to the glass;
peach, passion fruit, lemon nose; grapefruit, nectarine, honeysuckle, melon on the palate; 72% sav blanc, 17% chard, 11% muscat. Full, round, off-dry with muscat fruity sweetness always flirting in the background. Simple, would pair well with Asian food and folks who like slightly sweet, uncomplicated wine. Franciscan Oakville Estate is a pioneer in meritage wines (quality blends that are less than 75% of one variety of grape); their five-grape Magnificat in 1985 was a trailblazer. Equilibrium doesn’t rise to Magnificat heights, but it is a tasty example of Franciscan’s embrace of blended wine; it will pleasure those who swig on the sweeter side of wine without plunging you into the sordid world of candified plonk. A cornerstone Napa maker now part of the Constellation Brands portfolio, Equilibrium and other Franciscan efforts are worth a taste. $20