Deep ruby color; cherry, plum, blackberry, raspberry, oak spice, white pepper, rose petals, tobacco, smoke on the nose and palate.
Dry; integrated tannins and balancing acidity. Medium body. You can take your pick from a grab bag of descriptors because this includes just about every red fruit you can think of from two continents. Blend of 29% cariñena, 28% mencía, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 10% tempranillo, 8% garnacha, 4% merlot. The cariñena comes from Empordà DO, Spain, the mencia comes from Bierzo DO, Spain, the cab and tempranillo come from California’s Central Valley, the garnacha, syrah, and merlot come from Montsant DO, Spain. The winery is located in New Mexico with two tasting rooms in Albuquerque and one in Santa Fe.
Vara Winery & Distillery was founded in 2016 by Xavier Zamarripa and Doug Diefenthaler. In part, the effort is a celebration of New Mexico’s role as the birthplace of American winemaking, The Vara name pays homage to the Vara de Soberanía (Cane of Sovereignty), a ceremonial staff given by Spanish monarchs to Pueblo governors in 1620 as a symbol of self-governance and cultural authority. The artifact embodies Vara’s mission: to honor the intertwined histories of Spain and New Mexico, where Spanish missionaries first planted European grapevines (Vitis vinifera) along the Rio Grande in 1629—decades before California’s vineyards were planted. Zamarripa and Diefenthaler, both deeply influenced by Spanish winemaking traditions, sought to revive this overlooked legacy while fostering cross-cultural collaboration through wine and spirits.
Vara experienced a signal moment in 2020 when Laurent Gruet, co-founder of Gruet Winery, a pioneer in New Mexican sparkling wine (whose wines I have positively reviewed several times) joined Vara as a partner and sparkling wine maker. In 2023, the partnership made their first sparkling using only local grapes, including the historic listán prieto variety first planted by Spanish missionaries centuries earlier. All of this reflects Vara’s adventurous nature, as this red blend of grapes from Spain and California underscores.
Vara Tinto Especial Vino Tinto Español 2020 is an extraordinary blend of seven red grape varietals from Spain and California by a winery in New Mexico. Easy drinking, suffused with delicious red grapes. It harkens to the old adage, “we will treat you so many way you will have to like one of them.” Here, you likely will enjoy the whole mélange. Pairing—grilled and roasted red meats, slow-cooked brisket, prime rib, lamb chops; hearty, slow-cooked beef bourguignon, oxtail stew; pulled pork, barbecue ribs; chorizo; lentil stew, mushroom risotto, eggplant parmesan. Cheese—manchego, taleggio, aged gouda. $45
