Xavier Vins Cuvée Anonyme X Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009: Astonishingly delicious blackberries, refined black currant tang, cherry, licorice, spice; elegant tannin, modern style, voluptuous, multidimensional. Exotic blend of 25% grenache, 25% mourvèdre, 25% syrah, and remainder counoise, vaccarese, and a few other approved varietals. Robert Parker scored it 96. Châteauneuf-du-Pape and nearby Gigondas are among the pinnacle appellations in the world. Located in southern Rhône River of eastern France, the name means “new castle of the pope” and comes from the time the Roman Catholic pope lived in France at Avignon (about seven miles from the center of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region) during most of the 14th century. Grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre are core grapes of wine made in this region—internationally known as GSM wines. To savor such a delight is a privilege and vivid demonstration of difference between bargain pizza night fruity pop-and-pulls and the voluptuous, esoteric heights to which wine can soar. $57