Deep ruby color; black cherry, blackberry, plum, raspberry, oak spice, earth on the nose; blackberry, black cherry, plum, raspberry, toasted oak, vanilla on the palate.
Dry; juicy with relaxed tannins and acidity. Medium-plus body. Round, easily approachable. Aged in American oak, but it is well controlled—which can be a descriptor of this whole experience. Not too much too ripe fruit. Not too much alcohol. Not too much oak. Primarily cabernet sauvignon; 12% petit sirah. 14.5% ABV
The website notes: “While Pope Valley is less well known than some other Napa AVAs, the combination of steady heat and well-drained clay loam soils allows fruit to ripen evenly, gaining welcomed complexity and layers of flavor. We consistently see beautiful yields from our Allomi Vineyard, and this vintage was no different.”
Hess enjoys a storied history in Napa wine. In the 1880s, the families of Fisher, Brandlin, and Streich H. Hudeman settled on the property where the Hess Collection Winery now sits. Hudemann established a botanical garden that included a 12-acre vineyard and small winery. From 1884 to 1900 Rudolph Jordan owned the estate and made significant contributions to winemaking, including being the first to use cool fermentation and inoculated yeast.
Col. Theodore Gier, a prominent wine merchant and leader in the California wine industry, owned the property from 1900 to 1929. Gier planted more vineyards and built the three-story winery that today holds the Hess Collection’s art gallery and its historic barrel chai (an above-ground building that stores wine in casks) today.
The stock market crash ended Grier’s operations, and in 1930 the Christian Brothers purchased the property to establish a new novitiate, school, and winery. The Brothers expanded the winery and began producing Mont La Salle wines, a major provider of Catholic sacramental wines still today, although now from other properties and different owners.
In 1978, Donald Hess, a Swiss entrepreneur, purchased 900 acres of land on Mount Veeder, with 20 acres planted in wine vines. Looking for space for grape production, he leased the Christian Brothers winery on Mount Veeder in 1986. In 1989, he opened a visitor center and a gallery to present his extensive art collection. In addition to vineyard purchases, Hess also set aside more than 600 acres to support wildlife corridors, fish-friendly farming practices, and biodiversity with the mantra: “nurture the land and return what you take.”
Over succeeding years, Dave Guffy became the second director of winemaking and Hess increased its emphasis on sustainable winegrowing, including helping establish the Napa Green program and gaining certification in 2008. Donald Hess retired in 2011 and Timothy Persson, Donald’s son-in-law, became the CEO, the fifth generation of the Hess family to guide the operation. Timothy is joined by his wife, Sabrina, whose mission is to develop The Hess Collection into a world-class brand and destination. The operation now is called Hess Persson Estates.
Donald Hess died peacefully in his native Switzerland in January 2023 at age 86. He was well-known for “Donaldisms”—quick quips and phrases. A favorite: “Live each day with the courage of a Lion.” And he did.
The Hess Collection Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2017 is smooth, plush, rich easy drinker. A restrained version of classic Napa cab. Very tasty and respectful of your palate, including palates not fully into rich cabs. Pair with grilled meats—sirloin or ribeye topped with blue cheese; braised beef and pot roast; lamb; veal; venison, boar; barbecue chicken, baked chicken; herb-crusted chicken; roasted vegetables. Cheese—cheddar, aged gouda, gorgonzola; aged cow’s milk cheese with some age; semi-hard sheep’s milk cheese with some age; slightly firm, soft-ripened cheese with earthy notes like triple-crème brie. $30-35
